Posted by: vlbyers | July 14, 2010

Which way to go?

Our travels led us to head back toward La Paz from Ensenada Grande on Isla Partida, wrong way you say, yes but we felt we needed to get internet to check e-mail since we had a pressing matter. We got within about 7 miles of Costa Baja, the first marina in La Paz, before we got any signal, so we decided that we might as well go all the way there (only another hour)to get ice and drop off trash while we were at it. The folks at Costa Baja were extremely helpful as when I informed them that the person I spoke to on the radio said there was a store to buy ice there, which there was not, they offered to give me a ride to the nearest store to get it. Very nice.
E-mail checked and iced up we were back on our way. Our first stop was Caleta Partida, where we had been before but since we had gotten a later start than we intended we didn’t want to go the additional 4 miles to the next anchorage. After we had our anchor down and were settled it was dark, I was tired from motoring and sailing all day and glad we hadn’t pushed it. We got a great night sleep due to the protection of the anchorage and the wind cooling the boat down.
Many people have raved about Isla San Francisco so we were eager to get there. At this point there are so many anchorages on the way up and down the baja there isn’t a need to do any overnight sailing unless you are in a hurry, we are definitely not that. I could get used to these leisurely sails, get up oh whenever, grab your tea or coffee in the cockpit and a bite to eat. Listen to the radio for weather and to the shore sounds after that, then gradually pick up and stow stuff and pull anchor oh about 10 or so and get to the next anchorage in a few hours…oh the life. From Caleta Partida it was about 21 miles which for us is about 4 hours. Since we left early in the morning we had all day and didn’t have to worry or hurry about making the anchorage before dark.
San Francisco is a picturesque bay, like one you see on all the computer screen savers. Perfect half moon bay, white sand, gentle sloping land, no houses and crystal clear blue-green water. The only thing that was missing were the palm trees and the palapas. Swimming was refreshing and a walk along the beach and to the salt flats was nice, at least we didn’t run into any snakes. The anchorage was rather rocky, not actually rolly where the boat goes side to side knocking you out of your bunk or off of the seat and making life generally uncomfortable, this was more of an all over rocking motion which has a more peaceful feeling to me. Nevertheless Larry had a difficult time sleeping worried that the anchor would pull out and after 2 nights of this he was ready to move on.
San Evaristo was a whopping 9 miles from San Francisco, which for us is 2 hours on a bad day. We did a little extra sight-seeing while towing our lines behind us and pulled in after 2 other boats, a moorings catamaran and a large powerboat, the anchorage could handle a couple more easily. After a few hours the moorings boat left, leaving the powerboat and us. We kept eyeing the powerboat hoping they would invite us over for a beverage but after they took a dip in the cool water they disappeared for the night. Maybe next time we will be more outgoing, we’ll just invite ourselves.
We have had several days of uneventful sailing or motoring. The winds now are either in the morning and evening or not at all. Yesterday we experienced the not at all, no wind and no fish either. We are trying out lots of different lures in an attempt to increase our catching ratio. As of now it is in the fishes favor and at one fish every week is not enough for my liking, oh well we need to empty out the freezer anyway.
San Evaristo was in the guide book as being a fair sized fishing village with a tienda and a place to get ice, our most precious commodity these days. We took a walk around this village, said hi to many of the friendly locals and asked directions to the tienda as all the houses look alike and finally discovered that it was closed. Oh well, our ice will have to last us a few more days and fresh fruits and veges are highly overrated. After our walk we came back to the boat and discovered we were hot and sticky so the remedy for that is a dunk. We used our noodles, not our brains although we do use those on occasion, but the noodles for floating in the water. We hung out in the water until we were sufficiently cool and then took a shower on deck with the sun shower-that has to be one of the most useful things I brought.
There was no wind at all which made for a hot night, we watched a movie on the laptop and made popcorn in the pressure cooker, another nifty item which has come in very handy especially making beans. The movie was good, we watched the stars for a few minutes before retiring, magnificent what we can see when there are no city lights. We just don’t seem to tire of watching the night sky.

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