Posted by: vlbyers | February 12, 2011

La Cruz to Paraiso and Careyes

Larry and 'another' walking buddy

Pairiso Anchorage

Vicki and Larry at Flores restaurant

Rocinante at Anchor, Careyes

Casa de Flores at Careyes

Leaving La Cruz was bitter-sweet as we have had so much fun and met so many fantastic people here. It is definitely a place that both Larry and I would come back to and a place we could spend extended periods of time, when that time comes. But we have to say goodbye, we yearn to see new faces and new places and get out on the water again sailing. Our first leg would be the longest at 100 miles but we didn’t want to stop at any of the anchorages before Paraiso, one was not good for holding or protection and the other we had already stopped at last year with our friends on Lady J, we would go straight to Paraiso.
Our 20 hour motor sail was pretty uneventful save for the huge ship that was in direct line with our course, yes on my watch, at night, and the depth sounder which occasionally would give readings of 16 to35 ft when we were 5-7 miles offshore, yes of course at night and on my watch!! It happened with Larry too but by then we were suspect and didn’t pay much attention to it. We did see lots of whales, mostly their dorsal fins and spouting but there must have been 2-3 pods of 3-6 in each. One came the second closest to the boat that we have ever encountered, I am fine with second closest, I don’t ever want our first closest to be beat.
There isn’t much at this little anchorage of Paraiso, but beauty. It is 3 lobes with one available for anchoring. We arrived at 11 am the second day of our journey, about a 20 hour motor sail and set our anchor easily. The first day we just enjoyed the scenery, lounging and napping after the lack of sleep from our journey, and the first night was rolly since we hadn’t set our stern anchor. The next day we put the dinghy in the water with the engine, took a ride around the bay, I did some snorkeling in the 78 degree water-chilly!! There is a small resort of some kind on the shore but it didn’t look like it was inhabited. We took a hike from one of the smaller beaches adjacent to the hotel and hiked to the hotel. We encountered the infinity pool with hot tub and the sprinkler running so we knew that someone was doing some upkeep. Sure enough the man approached us with his watermelon in hand and notified us it was a private area and that we could use the beach only. We thanked him for the information and proceeded to head back the way we came. We had gotten our nice walk anyway.
After 2 nights in Pariaso we left for the next anchorage only 4 nm (that’s nautical miles)away, called Cayeyes. We had heard from some folks about this little anchorage and had read about it in our guide book but the reality of this very beautiful place can’t be described fully. I felt we had been transported to Europe, the colorful condos sit perched on the hillside along with some ‘very’ expensive mansions placed here and there around the bay. When we anchored there was only one other boat, just a little thing of about 120 ft., of course there were several pangas also on their moorings. The first night we enjoyed the beauty of the surroundings complete with a stunning sunset. Larry and I were playing cards in the cabin about 9:30 that night when our porthole was covered with the sight of a huge ship. We hopped out to see what was going on and our neighbors were headed out, hum they didn’t even invite us for a drink.
We went ashore the next day, seems both of the larger bays each have a resort. One is the condos which is Casa de Flores, and the other is a hotel, Hotel Careyes. We landed the dinghy on the beach where the condos are an d Larry offered to buy me lunch at the restaurant. The food was not cheap but it was excellent and we happened to dine, unbenounced to us, with the owner of Careyes Gian Franco. This place is really the place to go if you want seclusion and beauty. After dinner we took a walk to see what there was in the area, we began walking up the cobbled road and a woman asked if we wanted a ride, Larry didn’t ask any questions and so before we knew it we were riding in her car. I didn’t exactly know where we, or she, was going and through some questions found out that she was a teacher in Guadalajara and spends the summer here in this lovely place.
We spent 2 nights at this anchorage and were ready to move on. Tenacatita was about 22 miles to the south so we set off about 11 am. The wind was low so we had a nice motor sail, never saw any whales or dolphin.
As we approached Tenacatita there is a northern anchorage that we scoped out, it is just past some low headlands and the afternoon winds had picked up so it was pretty bouncy. There were also no other boats there and when we radioed ahead ‘Slacker’ said that there were 17 boats in the anchorage, we decided to try the middle, most popular anchorage. Sure enough as we came around the rocks we saw many boats, this area is quite protected from the north and west so we tucked in with the other boats.
Our first evening was on the boat just making sure the anchor held and our space was good, not too close to any other boats here. The sunset was fabulous, the air temp continues to be a bit chilly, ie: we can’t yet sit in the cockpit without putting on a light jacket. The second day we put the dinghy in the water along with the engine and took a trip to the beach. There is one small restaurant on the beach and we took advantage of trying the fish roll which was great. We then took the dinghy up the estuary to see what there could be, it was a relaxing journey of several hours, we saw many birds and 2 small crocodiles, one had died. The estuary looks, and smells quite polluted, we were also there in the afternoon so that could be the reason for the lack of animal life. Our friends from Oya are here and I look forward to doing some Yoga with Kiki.
Yesterday we took a dinghy trip to La Manzanilla which is a small town here in the bay. It is heavily gringo influenced, the streets are paved, sidewalked and there are many restaurants and shops. We stopped at La Quetzal for a brunch of bacon and eggs for L and a crepe with lots of veggies for yours truly, very yummy. The town has quite a variety of shops and Larry and I were able to get everything we were looking for, which included a card for our newest little granddaughter who will be one this week.
After the trip to the town we went to the beach for a volleyball game, and of course some shade and cool drinks at the restaurant to cool down afterward. The water temperature is warming along with the air temp so upon our return to the boat I jumped in for a nice swim, was cool but definitely more tolerable than when we were in Paraiso. Wonderful!!! Tomorrow looking forward to snorkeling.


  1. I’m glad that I’ve found your blog. I’m so surprised by your way of thinking and writing. Have you thought about writing a book?

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